On arrival in Chandni Chowk during the late morning or early noon hours, expect a whirlwind of activity. The market, over 400 years old, begins to peak in its energy as shopkeepers open their stalls, vendors set up their carts and shoppers start pouring in. The streets are alive with the sounds of honking cycle rickshaws, the rhythmic call of vendors advertising their goods and the occasional clatter of hooves as a horse-drawn carriage makes its way through the crowd. At the entrance to Kinari Bazaar, a narrow lane famed for its wedding trinkets and decorative embellishments, spot manually pulled rickshaws—an old-world charm surviving in a modern metropolis. Unlike cycle rickshaws or auto-rickshaws, these manually pulled carts rely on the strength and endurance of the rickshaw puller, a labor-intensive mode of transport that offers an unhurried, immersive experience.
Climbing onto the rickshaw can be a moment of anticipation. The seat is basic—a simple wooden frame with a thin cushion, perched above two wheels. The rickshaw puller, a wiry yet resilient figure, adjusts his grip on the handles, nods in acknowledgment and begins the slow but steady pull forward. While moving through Kinari Bazaar, the rickshaw’s gentle swaying provides an old-fashioned rhythm to the journey. With no engine hum or modern acceleration, the ride feels meditative, allowing the traveller to absorb the surroundings without the rush of a motorized vehicle.
Kinari Bazaar is a visual delight. Every shop, every stall is a feast of colors—golden zari borders shimmering under the sunlight, sequins glinting like tiny mirrors, silk threads woven into intricate patterns. The market specializes in wedding accessories, so expect to see garlands of artificial flowers, lavishly embroidered fabrics, decorative turbans, and dazzling jewelry. Even if you’re not shopping, the sheer spectacle of artistry on display is captivating. The crowd, however, can be overwhelming. During the late morning, traders from different parts of the city arrive to stock up on supplies, and customers—some browsing, others haggling—fill every inch of available space. The rickshaw puller, well-versed in navigating these tight lanes, expertly maneuvers through the maze, occasionally stopping or swerving to avoid oncoming traffic.
Riding through Kinari Bazaar in Chandni Chowk is an auditory and olfactory adventure. The sounds are a mixture of animated chatter, the rhythmic thudding of tailors working their sewing machines, and the calls of hawkers showcasing their wares. Temple bells occasionally chime from hidden shrines nestled between shops, adding a spiritual undertone to the commercial buzz. The scents are just as diverse—pungent spices wafting from a nearby store, the sugary aroma of freshly made jalebis, and the subtle hint of incense burning in the background. At some places, be prepared for the occasional whiff of street-side drains, a reminder of Old Delhi’s age-old infrastructure.
One of the most thrilling parts of the ride is squeezing through the tightest alleyways. Some sections of Kinari Bazaar are barely wide enough for a single person to pass comfortably, yet rickshaws, pedestrians and street vendors somehow coexist in a seemingly impossible dance. During the course of meandering through the alleys of the Chandni Chowk, the rickshaw puller may have to stop at times, waiting for a wayward cart to be pushed aside or a group of shoppers to clear a path. Despite the congestion, there is an unspoken understanding among market-goers. Vendors call out warnings before moving large goods, pedestrians instinctively step aside when they sense an approaching rickshaw, and shopkeepers lean out to guide pullers through the trickiest corners. It’s chaotic but strangely coordinated, a dance that has played out daily for centuries.
A ride through Chandni Chowk market often brings unexpected interactions. Shopkeepers may wave and invite a visitor to take a closer look at their products, curious children may smile at the tourist from behind their parents, and fellow travelers may nod in recognition of a shared adventure. The rickshaw puller himself, despite the strenuous nature of his job, might engage in light conversation, asking where you’re from or sharing snippets about his daily routine. Unlike in quieter, more touristy parts of Delhi, here, visitors are a part of the bustling local life rather than an observer. The genuine warmth of the people, despite the rush, is a testament to the spirit of Old Delhi.
As the rickshaw ride nears its end, catch sight of the Jama Masjid , its grand minarets peeking through the dense buildings. This 17th-century mosque, built by Mughal ruler Shah Jahan, serves as a reminder of Chandni Chowk’s rich history. Even in the midst of its modern-day commercial frenzy, the market retains echoes of its regal past. As the rickshaw comes to a halt, step off and stretch the legs after the fascinating ride. This exploration may have lasted only twenty to thirty minutes, but it has been a passage through time—an intimate experience of one of the most historic markets of Delhi. At the end of the exploration, at the time of parting ways with the rickshaw puller, a generous tip is always appreciated. His labour is grueling and a small gesture of kindness goes a long way.